Showing posts with label Sightseeing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sightseeing. Show all posts

Saturday, 12 September 2009

Our glorious leaders

I am now living in Kyoto.
I will write about this in depth in a little bit, but first I just wanted to write up my last few days in Tokyo.

Just to remind myself - communsists, kareoke, lost in translation

Wow, it's been a while since I've blogged, I have to think back to the 9th to recap.
My comrades invited me to the Japanese Communist Party's magnanimous 87th anniversary meeting. They also asked if I wanted to take part in a "Lifestyle, labour discussion". I thought that was going to be some kind of protest/march/rally. It wasn't quite.

A lifestyle, labour discussion (生活労働相談, for the initiated) is when the JCP go to the streets and interview people about their life and work. They either get people to fill in forms or hold more in-depth discussions with a few They talk about the details of their welfare, give them information about union membership and social security. They have a form of petition when you add your sticker to a list of woes you'd like the government to sort out, and more generally the JCP gather real people's opinions about what political and economic changes they'd like to see. This information is then delivered to the social security offices and hopefully informs policy making. A lot of their efforts is spent talking to the homeless, a group that sadly is rapidly growing in Japan.

It is too easily for even the most concerned person to dehumanise the homeless. Though we might strive against these sorts of prejudices on a rational level, when we see a drunken homeless person, someone raving, or even just begging, I fear a part of all of us feels they might deserve to be where they are, might question what benefit they are to society. Now, this is of course wrong. And in Japan just how wrong this is is brought home by meeting some of the homeless. Japanese society (I suppose like all societies actually, though maybe in a more defined sense over here) often works by sorting people into us and them, self and other, "in group" and "out group". When you are in group you are looked after. Japanese businesses have traditionally rewarded their worker's loyalty with very generous health, security and pension schemes. However, once you are in the out-group, outside the mainstream of white collar salary man work or unionised blue-collar work, you are fucked. There is little in the way of a social safety net. Speak to a Japanese homeless person and you may well find that they are fluent in English, once worked in middle management for a multi-national corporation and used to have a very nice (if Japanese sized) house indeed. People who bemoan the British welfare system need only look across the Eurasian landmass to see people of very similar backgrounds to themselves sleeping on the street.

Ah, a good polemic. The real point is, the JCP are the only party in Japan who partake in this very special, very democratic consultation process with the people. It's this attitude that makes me respect them so much. Oh yeah, I did the flyering, and pointed people towards JCP members they could talk to.

As for the anniversary meeting, it was pretty interesting. The first thing that struck me was what a huge building they were able to fill up.
Photobucket

The main speaker was Shii Kazuo, leader of the JCP.
Photobucket
I could understand about 25% maximum of his speach, though I caught that there was a lot about the other Japanese parties, a lot about the Japanese-American relationship and a fair amount comparing statistics about Japan with those from the rest of the world. I could also tell that, though not quite of Obama standards, he was an engaging and lively orator, something very rare in Japanese politics. He punned, and played on the JCP's outsider status (there was a big laugh when he told some joke about "being out of the loop") and he's respected by the rank and file. Perhaps by the time of the 88th I'll actually be able to understand what he's saying...

Other than that, me and the student volunteers talked about the state of the Left in Britain. I was asked whether most students had an interest in politics. I told them that the average student is indifferent, but a lot of students are pretty concerned about the environment, gay rights and racism. Do you think this is accurate?

I asked about getting involved in student politics at Doshisha and was told to be careful. Kyoto is Japan's most left leaning city ("But I thought Kyoto was very traditional?" "They're left wing because they want to protect those traditions") and Kyoto University in particular has a history of violent student activism. When one talks of Trotskites in Japan, it calls to mind this sort of thing and there are a few of those sorts lingering at Doshisha. If I open up to easily about my orientation, I might be recruited by some unsavory sorts in helmets. Fuckin' 'ell. Well, the JCP reject violence and for them political activism is about the democratic processes I described above. Basically I just need to pop down to my local friend Communist Branch Office and ask if there's a student group I can join, being sure not to forget to mention my volunteering in Tokyo. And one of my friends in Tokyo has promised me a shoukai, an introduction - something that oils the cogs of Japanese society and has a lot of etiquette surrounding it - to a JCP friend in Kyoto. Plus, it turns out that Tadatoshi Tasiro-san, the one I met down at the Main Office who helped me campaign in the first place is a bigshot within the party and could definitely help me get some connections. Result. I had a lot of fun with the Tokyo students, and I hope to meet them again, my experiences thus far with the JCP have been really special, and I'm looking forward to continuing with them this year.

These are some people who were outside the anniversary meeting.
Photobucket

Photobucket

But to move from the workers to the bourgeous, on the 10th me and my friends from Cambridge had a few drinks at the New York Grill in the Tokyo Park Hyatt. (Being a champagne socialist is better than being a champagne Tory, and I prefer whisky anyway.) You have to dress to the nines to get in. That sentence is there purely because I love the phrase 'dressed to the nines'. It was very nice, but ULTRA expensive, and weirdly enough they were pretty stingy with the drink servings. But we all managed to milk 2 and a half hours out of a couple of drinks each.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

BONUS PICTURE
Photobucket

Then moving from bling-swank to indie-chic, I left the Cambridge crew (sorry guys), and met up with my Tokyoite friends in Shimokita-zawa, the Brick Lane of Tokyo.
We had some drinks in a nice small bar.
Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

When we were suitably inebriated around 2:30 we hit the kareoke box and covered everything from The Blue Hearts - Linda Linda, the only Japanese song I know the words for, to Britney Spears - Toxic, and all sorts of 80s hits/pop punk classics in between. At 5 we were kicked out, the girls having had a bit much to drink and stumbling home in a cab, me with 6 and a half hours to kill before my train to Kyoto and with no accommodation because I thought I might as well save the money and stay up. Obviously I find the nearest Manga-kissa, Internet Cafe and settle down there. Most manga-kissa are nice, large darkened rooms with secure cubicles and reclining seats. This was a smaller room, brightly lit with flimsy cubicles and curtains for privacy and office chairs. Following an hour messing around on the internet, it was in these conditions I managed to get 2ish hours of low quality sleep. God Bless Japan o/ But I woke up at 9 and caught my train, and now I'm in Kyoto.

I had a really good time in Tokyo. It's become my second city, there's nowhere in the world outside London I feel more comfortable in. Cambridge doesn't count, it's just London guys. Important environmental considerations, finance, friends and family notwithstanding, I could easily see myself dividing my life between the two great metropolises. But now I'm gone, and here starts a new chapter. I am now living in Kyoto.

<3<3<3

Friday, 4 September 2009

Parklife

I went back to Yasukuni Shrine today.
But before I get into that; I managed to find grass today!
No, not marijuana. Grass. The grassy stuff. A poster near the shrine advertised Ninomaru park in the Imperial Palace complex, and it showed people sitting down on grass. Looking at a map of Tokyo, one might almost think it was quite a green city. It's not. Maps all around the city show green spaces, but the qualification for this seems to be to have the word 'park' in your name. Some of the more honest green patches on maps correlate to a reality that looks like this:
Photobucket
You can look at green things, but no sitting, no touching. Other green patches - such as the one in Akihabara - are concrete spaces with benches and surrounding hedges.

This has the consequence of making Japan feel floaty, rather literally ungrounded. I'm English. As a socialist I denounce nationalism as a distraction, a tool to turn the working classes against each other. But fuck it, our is a green and pleasant land, and nothing is nicer to this urban dweller than sitting and reading on grass.
This may be the first time in the four years I've been to Japan where I have found a patch of natural green ground that I can sit down, lie down, max and relax on. The green of Japan is all rice paddy, forest and in small parts touristic garden: it is for harvest, logging and taking photos of.

Absolutely spiffing:
Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

You know what, I was going to talk about Japanese historical revisionism - aren't you the lucky ones - but I may make like a Guardian journalist and back off on the polemic for one post.

So to leave you with a Japanesey taste in your mouth: what did I find on the way to the park? Vamps? VAMPS!

...

Vamps are apparently these guys:


Their fans are definitely these guys:
Photobucket
They were dressed in black in pink and sometimes as cats or something. There were thousands, and they were politely lined up outside a festival hall.

Photobucket

Photobucket

Question?
Answer: VAMPS!


<3

Tuesday, 1 September 2009

In praise of

Asakusa.

I'm staying in Sakura Hostel in the part of town called Asakusa. Asakusa's in the north eastern section of Tokyo known as 'Shitamachi' - literally 'down town', a name which has some of the connotations of 'East End' before it became trendy and gentrified. Shitamachi is the old heart of Tokyo, a bit rough around the edges but seeped in tradition. Asakusa is the centre of this and it hasn't changed a bit:

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Notice anything? It's crass, kitsch and commercial. It's a fake. And that's it's authenticity. Asakusa has always been a fake, it has always been a plastic imitation of it's own past. Today it is home to tens of thousands of tourists flocking to see it's temples and shops, and sleeping in it's dozens of cheap youth hostels. In the 20s and 30s the people of Asakusa sneered at the tourists from Ginza - think Sloaneys with Hoxton pretensions, and before that people from all over the country came to pilgrimage at the Kannon temple, to partake in all the buying of noodles and prostitutes that were part of any decent pilgrimage.

I've stayed in the area in years past, but have only come to really appreciate it's charms since reading The Scarlet Gang of Asakusa, an underated Modernist classic by Japan's Nobel Prize winning, and deserving - his books are dissonant and beautiful - author Kawabata Yasunari. It's garish and great and I hope it never stops pretending.

In other news: I auditioned for a job modeling for these guys today. Or tonight rather, they wanted me at the studio at 21:00. I'll find out tomorrow if I'm in, and if I am, the fashion show's on the 10th and I think it pays 30,000円 which is about £200. I'm so fucking marketable. I'll let you know how it goes.

And otherwise here are some pictures I took today, enjoy!

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

This is a picture of a picture of a cat:
Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

Photobucket

I don't really know what to make of this: Barack Obama and the ex-Prime Minister Taro Aso, and plastic machine guns?
Photobucket

Photobucket

Enjoy~
xxx

Monday, 31 August 2009

For relaxing times...

Noodles which used to cost £3 now cost £5. Train tickets that used to cost 80p now cost £1.20 Hostel rooms that used to cost £15 a night now cost £25. But you know, I can't complain:

Photobucket
That's me and a bottle of Suntory Whisky. It cost 494円, £3.50.

Today is wet and cold.
Photobucket

Which makes a change from the last few days which have been damp and hot. But yes, I had a cold, wet, lazy day, where I wandered around Ueon and Akihabara WHERE I FOUND SOME REAL NICE MOCHI:
Photobucket

Photobucket
Then I bought some whisky and came back to the hostel.

In a fairly exciting development, I've been invited to the JCP's 87th "Anniversary Lecture Meeting" on the 9th of September. Shut up, it will be more interesting than the name suggests~ Before that starts there will be an "Street Life Labour Discussion". Which seems to be one of these. It's nice to feel that my connection with the JCP won't end just because the election's over. I'll definitely get involved at Doshisha. Interestingly enough, according to one of my friends in the JCP, Kyoto, which is known for being all traditional and shit, is the most left leaning area of Japan. To have a go at amateur political sociology, it reminds me a bit of the of the American political situation versus the European one. In a young country like America, people cling to politics and culture that feels traditional, conservative, while in Europe where there is no question of historical infancy, progressive politics are not a threat to the national self-image. Or maybe it's just because Kyoto's a university town. Anyway, with another election coming up in July 2010, I'm going to paint the town Red. LOL.

Sorry for the slightly bitty blog. I'm going to drink whisky and read. Night!
xxx